It’s All About Wig Making
Darts are an inevitability for a wig maker. If you don’t know what a dart is, then here’s an evidence:
The rationale they’re present in hand-made wigs and larger hairpieces is as a result of both a wig and a big hairpiece (that encompasses the curves of the pinnacle) are not a flat form. When flat fabric needs to make a rounded skull shape, some type of dart is concerned. Another reason you could run into them alongside your wig making journey is when making alterations to a wig.
As I’ve talked about before on this blog, I like to recommend gaining some sewing skills earlier than you set about hand-making wig foundations and huge hairpiece bases. Each of those tasks require not only sewing skills equivalent to knowledge of assorted sewing stitches, haberdashery and maybe how to use a sewing machine, but in addition an innate understanding of how to use fabric to design and make one thing you are evisaging in your head.
There are a couple of guidelines that must be followed when making wig foundations and hairpiece bases that incorporate darts:
1. Until the person you are making for has an uneven head shape (for some cause), aim to make the darts ‘even’. Which means: when you have a dart over one ear, it is best to have one over the opposite ear. In actuality this normally means making the first dart smaller, after which making one other dart the opposite side, taking up the remainder of the slack you have got realeased off the first dart you made (so basically halving the dart you had initially made).
2. Darts on the facet must be turned in the direction of the again.
3. Darts on the crown and back must be turned towards the centre.
4. With wigs, if pinned correctely darts shouldn’t be placed on the vertex.
The red triangles are the ‘darts’, the blue line on the facet view is the wig edge. The crimson line denotes the middle of the wig; it is useful to mentally divide the wig down the center so that you ensure you have an equal dart on the other aspect. You can see why you would need the darts to be even, as it helps to create a symmetary to the wig shape and ensure it matches properly without being bulky.
Instance of darts placement on a wig – notice that each one is mirrored by an equal on the other facet
Re: #1 – When laying the lace/tulle/web/monofilament, or whatever fabric it’s you’re utilizing to make the foundation/base, you’ll intially pin numerous points of the material and begin to make darts as you lay and stretch the fabric to make the rounded scalp shape. As you then transfer additional back, or around to the opposite side of the block/head, you will see that that you want to unpin some points that you’ve got already pinned with the intention to make the cap easy and formed appropriately. In the case of darts, I try to pin both sides at the identical time because I do know I need to create an equal dart on the opposite facet. I.e. if I’m pinning a dart on the right aspect, I’ll begin adjusting the left aspect in the same place/location, utilizing short-term pins half-pushed-in (reasonably than fully pushed in/fixed) to hold sections, so that I create two equal darts on each sides, instead of 1 large one on one aspect. What number of darts you find yourself utilizing depends upon the particular person’s head form that you’re making the wig for, and how many pieces of fabric you are using to make the wig. Some wigs are made using solely 1 sort of fabric as the base. Others have a number of sections to their sample and use a distinct piece of material for every part. Regardless, the identical precept applies throughout.
Re: #2 and #three – When you make a dart, you literally pull a section of fabric up in your hand and then fold it over, because it is essentially ‘excess’ material. You’d then pin it, to hold the surplus fabric in place while you pin the rest of the wig materials onto the block. There are different types of darts used in costume making and different types of sewing, but normally in wig making, darts are triangular in shape due to the cap shape we’re creating.
Here is an example of how a dart is created:
The blue arrow signifies the fabric being pulled over so that the 2 yellow strains meet (the yellow line edge of the fabric on the best facet lays on high of the yellow line edge of the fabric on the left aspect). After pinning the whole wig, you’ll then sew along the pinned edge of each dart – along the yellow line, in order that the fabric is joined collectively permanently and, most importantly, lies flat. I sew mine along each edges to make sure they are completely easy and low-profile.
It’s also imporant to follow a fundamental rule when marking darts on a wig:
Darts on the left – fold towards the proper
Darts on the correct – fold in direction of the left
Or.. another means of taking a look at it = if you are making a dart on the facet, you are folding in the direction of the rear of the head/wig and if you make a dart on the back, you might be folding towards the other ear.
Re: #4 – As a common rule of thumb, it is much less desireable to create darts on the vertex (the vertex being the highest of the pinnacle from entrance harline to crown and from facet to aspect earlier than the top curves away). The rationale for that is since you want the realm everyone looks at (the highest and entrance) to look seamless, and smooth.. as if the particular person is just not carrying a wig. Generally we need to make darts on this space because of the fabric getting used and/or the shape of a person’s head. In this case, it is very important to think about their placement. You wish to think about the hairstyle that the wig will find yourself being styled in. E.g. if the wig goes to have a partline, do not make a dart that reveals on this space. If the hair is going to be brushed again for some purpose (ponytail or up-do or quick hairdo) and/or you are making a wig with a very positive, graduated hairline, seal hair placing a dart someplace at the entrance will be more likely to show. Normally one would aim to don’t have any darts on the front hairline, and when you want to place darts in the front part of the wig, then place them over the ears, or alongside a line around the crown (but avoiding any partline or open crown areas).