It’s All About Wig Making
Darts are an inevitability for a wig maker. If you don’t know what a dart is, then here’s an evidence:
The rationale they’re present in hand-made wigs and larger hairpieces is as a result of both a wig and a big hairpiece (that encompasses the curves of the top) are not a flat form. When flat fabric needs to make a rounded skull shape, some form of dart is concerned. Another reason you could run into them along your wig making journey is when making alterations to a wig.
As I’ve mentioned before on this blog, I like to recommend gaining some sewing expertise earlier than you set about hand-making wig foundations and huge hairpiece bases. Each of those tasks require not solely sewing expertise reminiscent of knowledge of assorted sewing stitches, haberdashery and maybe how to use a sewing machine, but also an innate understanding of how to use fabric to design and make something you are evisaging in your head.
There are a couple of rules that must be followed when making wig foundations and hairpiece bases that incorporate darts:
1. Until the person you are making for has an uneven head shape (for some purpose), aim to make the darts ‘even’. Which means: when you have a dart over one ear, it’s best to have one over the opposite ear. In actuality this normally means making the first dart smaller, after which making another dart the opposite side, taking up the remainder of the slack you may have realeased off the first dart you made (so basically halving the dart you had initially made).
2. Darts on the facet must be turned towards the again.
3. Darts on the crown and again must be turned in the direction of the centre.
4. With wigs, if pinned correctely darts should not be positioned on the vertex.
The red triangles are the ‘darts’, the blue line on the facet view is the wig edge. The pink line denotes the middle of the wig; it is useful to mentally divide the wig down the center so that you guarantee you have an jet black sew in weave equal dart on the opposite aspect. You can see why you’d want the darts to be even, as it helps to create a symmetary to the wig shape and guarantee it matches properly with out being bulky.
Instance of darts placement on a wig – notice that each is mirrored by an equal on the opposite facet
Re: #1 – When laying the lace/tulle/internet/monofilament, or no matter fabric it’s you’re using to make the inspiration/base, you will intially pin varied factors of the material and start to make darts as you lay and stretch the fabric to make the rounded scalp form. As you then move further again, or around to the other facet of the block/head, one can find that it’s good to unpin some factors that you’ve got already pinned with the intention to make the cap easy and shaped accurately. Within the case of darts, I attempt to pin both sides at the identical time because I do know I need to create an equal dart on the opposite aspect. I.e. if I am pinning a dart on the appropriate aspect, I will start adjusting the left aspect in the same place/location, utilizing temporary pins half-pushed-in (quite than utterly pushed in/fixed) to carry sections, in order that I create two equal darts on each sides, instead of 1 large one on one facet. What number of darts you find yourself utilizing depends upon the person’s head form that you are making the wig for, and how many pieces of fabric you are using to make the wig. Some wigs are made using solely 1 sort of material as the base. Others have several sections to their sample and use a distinct piece of material for every part. Regardless, the same precept applies throughout.
Re: #2 and #three – When you make a dart, you literally pull a piece of fabric up in your hand and then fold it over, because it is essentially ‘excess’ materials. You’d then pin it, to hold the surplus fabric in place while you pin the rest of the wig materials onto the block. There are different types of darts used in costume making and other forms of sewing, but normally in wig making, darts are triangular in shape due to the cap shape we’re creating.
Here is an instance of how a dart is created:
The blue arrow signifies the fabric being pulled over in order that the 2 yellow lines meet (the yellow line edge of the fabric on the correct facet lays on top of the yellow line edge of the jet black sew in weave fabric on the left aspect). After pinning the whole wig, you’ll then sew along the pinned edge of every dart – along the yellow line, in order that the fabric is joined collectively permanently and, most importantly, lies flat. I sew mine along each edges to verify they are completely smooth and low-profile.
It’s also imporant to comply with a fundamental rule when marking darts on a wig:
Darts on the left – fold towards the suitable
Darts on the right – fold in the direction of the left
Or.. one other method of taking a look at it = if you are making a dart on the facet, you might be folding in the direction of the rear of the head/wig and if you are making a dart on the again, you are folding in the direction of the opposite ear.
Re: #4 – As a basic rule of thumb, it is less desireable to create darts on the vertex (the vertex being the highest of the head from entrance harline to crown and from aspect to side before the top curves away). The explanation for this is since you need the area everybody seems at (the highest and front) to look seamless, and easy.. as if the individual shouldn’t be wearing a wig. Sometimes we must make darts in this area as a result of fabric being used and/or the shape of a person’s head. On this case, it is very important to consider their placement. You want to suppose concerning the hairstyle that the wig will find yourself being styled in. E.g. if the wig goes to have a partline, don’t make a dart that reveals in this space. If the hair goes to be brushed back for some purpose (ponytail or up-do or brief hairdo) and/or you’re making a wig with a really effective, graduated hairline, placing a dart somewhere at the entrance will be more possible to show. Normally one would aim to don’t have any darts on the front hairline, and when you need to place darts in the entrance part of the wig, then place them over the ears, or alongside a line around the crown (however avoiding any partline or open crown areas).